Why we went.
For our Black South Sea pearls we knew there was only one place to go: Tahiti. Black South Sea pearls are so distinct to this region of the South Pacific, that they are often known as Tahitian pearls.
Our Mangareva Connection.
Tahiti, is not an easy place to get to. Made up of a group of islands within the country of French Polynesia, it is located in the middle of the South Pacific and is actually so remote, that there probably wouldn't be any reason for there to even flights. However, due to its long history of touristic appeal, it remains connected to the world, and we were able to connect in Tokyo to an Air Tahiti Nui flight bound for Tahiti's main island, Papeete.
This visit to Tahiti was an exciting opportunity for us because we had an invitation to visit the farm of one of the countries most prominent pearl farms run by a Mr. Victor Teikipupuni. What made the invitation even more exciting was that the farm was located on the legendary island of Mangareva, which is considered by many pearl experts to be Tahiti's finest source for the darkest Black South Sea pearls in the world.
Our Adventure Begins:
After landing in Tahiti's main airport, we continued our journey transferring to the weekly scheduled flight to Mangareva. Serviced by a small ATR propeller plane, the journey to takes about four hours, passing over endless chains of uninhabited islands ringed with azure lagoons. We finally land on the tiny airstrip that is Mangareva's airport, and moments later we meet Victor and his son Jean-Luc. After sipping on some fresh coconuts to refresh us, we find ourselves on a speedboat zipping our way across the lagoon to Victor's farm.
Built on stilts directly above a shallow part of a lagoon the farm resembles a kind of ranch platform in the middle of the sea, and as we arrive it's buzzing with activity.
Just beside the farm are rows and rows of oysters, suspended in underwater in netted pouch panels just a few feet below the crystal clear surface. Overseen by Jean-Luc, Victor's farm hands pull the oysters panels from the sea, and transport them by boat to the specialized cleaning stations on the farm.The team are experts in their field, requiring no instruction as they go about their daily work to maintain the oysters, ensuring they are in peak condition to thrive and grow pearls.
Jean-Luc explains that one of the reasons why his fathers pearls are so sought after is because of the amount of effort the team devotes to cleaning every single oyster on his farm. In the wild, barnacles, sea-sponges and parasites prey upon oysters, causing damage the pearls growing the pearls within. So by physically removing them from the shell of the oyster, the oysters remain healthy. "There's not magic to it" he explains "just constant focus and lots of hard work."
Over the next few days, time passes quickly as we spend time on the island getting to know Mangareva and its locals. It's easy to understand why Tahiti has such a legendary reputation. With the sight and smell of flowers is everywhere, washed by sunshine and immersed in verdant nature, Managareva is a tropical paradise.
People are quick to smile, cheerful and friendly, greeting you with a happy "Iorana" the Tahitian word for Good Day as they go about their business.
Home to about 500 people, the island revolves almost totally around pearling. Everyone you meet either works directly or indirectly with pearls, with the income generated supporting the small shops, restaurants, school and church that make a community here in Managareva.
Time to go home.
On our final night, Victor invites us and all of his farm hands for a dinner of "poission cru"- freshly caught tuna, marinated in coconut milk and of course a few Hinano beers.
Victor became fascinated with pearls after a chance meeting with a pearl trader who supported and encouraged him that there was a future in pearl farming. "At that time in the mid 1990's I was an outsider to Mangareva, with just a few oysters to start my farm. "Nobody expected me to succeed since I had no experience in pearling, but if you love what you do and put in serious effort, no matter what you do, in the end you will succeed."